Lessons in layering: 5 items you need to layer up this winter

I used to spend most of my autumns and winters in states of varying cold, damp and misery. Well, the misery was exacerbated by the fact it apparently gets dark at 2.53PM in November, but my clothing, or poor choices around it, certainly didn’t help resolve the issue. I’d wear the same thin navy wool coat and cotton sweatshirt, whether the conditions were mild or arctic. I didn’t know any better. I recall a late autumn work trip to Russia several years ago, where my very nice local guide, Natalia, balked at my outfit: ‘You’re going to be cold!’ She was right. Moscow in winter is the real deal. I soon changed my ways, which is to say that I bought a better coat, and worked out how to layer appropriately.  

Putting on clothes, how hard can it be? But the tricky thing about layering is the Matryoshka Doll-like requirement of steadily building up fabrics, weights, densities. The discovery of the blouson jacket changed my life, which might be a bit hyperbolic, but it really did help. A zip-up, mid-weight jacket that can go over a jumper and under a Proper Coat. Genius. It takes a bit of time to find one that works just so, but when you do!  

Proper outdoors people, the kind of eager beavers who don’t shudder at terms like ‘6AM summit’ and ‘homemade granola’ have long known that the secret to expert layering isn’t bulk, but a simple and effective three layer method of subtle increases. A base layer for regulating body temperature and light insulation; a mid layer for trapping heat; and a final thicker outer layer for protection against the elements. It’s a system that works just as well up Ben Nevis as it does for a particularly treacherous walk to the office.  

If you’re after real life, anthropological layering lessons then I’d suggest observing the older members of society. Or, as GQ called it last year, ‘Old Man Style’ as an autumn layering hack. I believe that elders have, over the years, built up an inherent understanding of what it means to layer. Slowly adding key items and maintaining them properly. Once you find the merino jumper, Harrington jacket or wool overcoat that pushes your warmth and comfort during the bleaker months up even just one notch, then you’ll be loath to part with it. That Matryoshka Doll effect really does work. 

These things take time and intention, which is part of the fun of getting dressed. Here are the five items that you need to have to build up your layering system…

What more needs to be said. A well-made wool overcoat, or weatherproof parka with a warm filling, should last for as long as you need it to and see you through the dimmer months.

The unsung-but-essential hero of a well layered wardrobe, a slightly cropped, zip or button-up jacket without any bulk on the shoulder will be able to slot under your proper coat to create that oh-so important barrier. It also adds texture to a look, which is an added bonus.

Natural, simple, merino is nature’s own fabric thermos flask. It keeps you warm when it’s cold and cooler when it’s hot. It’s also a fabric that, when things get really chilly, is thin enough to be worn under another jumper without adding any bulk. A super layer, if you will.

An added bonus, the style and standards of gilets have improved beyond measure in recent years. I’m a fan of one with a more military/outdoors feel, with a zip, plenty of pockets and a bit of padding for warmth. Your body stays toasty, but your arms are free as can be. What’s not to like?

Another recent trend in the layering world, a half-zip jumper is another piece that brings texture as well as some occasionally essential warmth without too much heft. Over a T-shirt, or merino jumper, and either under a bigger coat, or your mid-layer, it acts as a customisable bridge between layers and has the added benefit of keeping your neck warm too.